The Trastevere (and Janiculum) area

If you are looking for that authentic Roman experience then Trastevere is the place to book your Rome accommodation.
The area is characterized by its charming cobbled alleyways, small inviting piazzas, friendly locals, excellent choice of restaurants and Roman cuisine, and vibrant day and nightlife. It competes with areas like Navona and Campo de Fiori for being the "Most authentic Roman suburb."

The Trastevere may be the other side of the Tevere (Tiber river) but it's still only a stroll away from many of Rome's biggest tourist attractions: Circus Maximus, the Colosseum, Mouth of Truth, Marcellus Theater, Piazza Venezia, Piazza di Campidoglio, Pantheon and Piazza Navona, to name a few.

The Trastevere area has no Metro nearby but there are plenty of buses and also a handy tram to choose from (we will discuss transport options later down the page). One important bit of advice: The nightlife in the area can be quite vibrant so be sure that your accommodation faces away from the piazzas (squares) and busy streets.

Rome Italy Map: Trastevere Area

What to see in the Trastevere area?

The Santa Maria in Trastevere was originally founded in the 3rd Century BC and is said to be the first official Christian building of worship. It was founded by Pope Callixtus when Christianity was still very much a minority.
Much of what you see today, which is in remarkable condition, was from the additions made to the Santa Maria in Trastevere during the 12th Century. The church is a treasure trove of mosaics and icons from the medieval era.

The Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere is the meeting point for the Trastevere area, and in the evenings you will see many couples, students and musicians sitting on the steps around the fountain (Carlo Fontana) in the center of the piazza.

In Piazza San Francesco d'Assisi is the Church of San Francesco a Ripa. St Francis of Assisi lived here during his stay in Rome and his crucifix and stone pillow can be seen in the room where he slept. The church is also home to Bernini's much debated "Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Albertoni" - the sculpture of the nun Ludovica whose pangs of both religious ecstasy and mortal suffering look too provocative for some members of the faith.

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Strolling from Tiber island to Campo
de Fiori over the Ponte Fabricio

Between Trastevere and Campo de Fiori lies the Tiber Island (Isola Tiberina). The Ponte Cestio (Cestio bridge) connects Tiber Island with Trastevere, and the Ponte Fabricio connects it with the Jewish Ghetto area of Campo de Fiori.

The Ponte Fabricio dates from 62 BC and is the oldest standing bridge over the Trastevere.

The original Port of Ancient Rome was situated in this area of Campo de Fiori and Tiber island.
The island is home to a hospital and church. This association with healing the sick goes back over 2300 years to 293 BC when a temple celebrating the God of healing, Aesculapius, was erected on the island. The present church was built on the old temple in the 10th Century.

Hardly a stones throw upstream from the Tiber island The Trastevere area is again connected with Campo de Fiori by Ponte Sisto. The bridge is named after the Pope who commissioned the construction, Pope Sixtus IV.

The central orifice in the main supporting arch is said to have been constructed as a flood warning marker for the old Roman inhabitants; if the water levels of the Tiber reached this height then the surrounding areas were in grave danger of flooding. Actually the orifice is quite a clever engineering addition as it relieves the build up of forces during Rome floods. See pictures of the Ponte Sisto during the Rome Floods of December 2008.

As if the Trastevere isn't already blessed with enough camera fodder its neighbour is the Janiculum hill. The Janiculum is not only known for its spectacular views over the city and being a romantic at night for couples but it is also the scene where Garibaldi while fighting for Italian unity (history of Rome Italy) courageously held off the Pope's sponsored French troups.

Views from the Janiculum

If you decide to walk to the top of the Janiculum a relaxing stroll is the route through the beautiful Botanical Gardens (from Via della Lungara into Via Corsini), 3€ entrance.

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Getting to and from the Trastevere area.

(Refer to the street map of the Trastevere area above.)

Rome Tram:

• The No 8 tram runs through Viale di Trastevere over Ponte Garibaldi (upstream from Tiber Island) down Via Arenula and finishes at Largo di Torre Argentina. From here you are only a short stroll away from Piazza Navona and the Roman Pantheon.
• You can take the No 3 tram from Via di Porta Portese (off Viale Trastevere) over Ponte Sublicio and towards Piramide, Circus Maximus, The ancient Roman Colosseum and San Giovanni in Laterano.

Rome buses: The main bus stop is at Termini Station.

• Bus no 115 goes from Via Emilio Morosini (by Ospedale/hospital Nuovo Regina Margherita) to the top of Janiculum hill (Gianicolo).
• Bus line H goes from Viale di Trastevere across Ponte Garibaldi, through Campo de Fiori, around Piazza Venezia, up Via Nazionale (Veneto/Quirinal area) past Piazza della Repubblica and finishes at Termini.
• To the Vatican: the Trastevere side of the Tiber is one way traffic from the Vatican to the Trastevere area, so your best is to cross the Tiber over Ponte Garibaldi and take the No 23 or 271 bus (you would return with the same bus) from Street Lungotevere dei Vallati to the Vatican.

For more about the buses in Rome see my dedicated page Rome buses and Rome public transport.

Rome taxi: There are main taxi ranks at Piazza Mastai and Piazza Belli (refer to the street map above).

Rome tourist buses: The closest tourist bus stop is the other side of the Tiber island: over the Ponte Fabricio and near the Marcellus Theater (Teatro di Marcello).

Note: If you haven't already heard about it on my site then the ATAC public transportation in Rome site has a great tool for calculating the quickest route from point A to point B anywhere in Rome. When you arrive at the website click on the English language option to the right. Fill in your departure address and arrival address.

• Rome buses
• Rome trams
• Rome Metro

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Restaurants and nightlife in the Trastevere area.

With regards to restaurants and nocturnal activities, the Trastevere area lacks very little. Restaurants, clubs, arty cafes, bars and pubs populate most streets.
The Viale del Moro (near the Tiber river) and Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere are the beginning of most social activities in the area.

The area oozes character and charm, and in summer you will find restaurant tables and chairs spilling into sidewalks, alleys and piazzas. In winter too, but with the addition of the overhead gas heaters.

If for some reason you get bored of the choices in Trastevere then the busy nightlife of Piazza di Campo dè Fiori is a short beautiful stroll away across the Tiber River.